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Shispare () is one of the high mountain peaks of the Batura Muztagh, the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram mountain range in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan.
Alternate forms of the name of this peak include Shispare Sar, Shisparé Sari "Fiak Ting" فیاک ٹنگ or Tegh Sar تیغ سر (which means Sharp Head in the local Wakhi language language).
The first ascent route followed the Passu Glacier to the East Ridge, between the Passu Glacier. (Note: this ridge goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east, so it is called the "southeast ridge" and the "northeast ridge" in different sources.) Difficulties included a long ice ridge, and the access to the ridge required 1500m of fixed rope.
The next attempt was in 1989 by members of the Ryukoku University Alpine Club in Japan, led by Masato Okamoto. The group was on the mountain for almost two months, but was not able to summit; their high point was around .
In 1994, a group from the Komono Alpine Club in Japan, led by Yukiteru Masui, achieved the second ascent of the peak. They reached Base Camp on June 18, and Masui, Kokubu, and Ozawa reached the summit on July 20. They followed the same route as the first ascent party and climbed in a similar style, with a similar amount of fixed rope.
In 2017, Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenrou Nakazima made the first alpine-style ascent via the previously unclimbed northeast route, and they won the Piolets d'Or prize.
The Himalayan Index lists no other ascents or attempts of this peak.
Books, pamphlets, and maps about Shispare
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